Translations available

Kenya, Coast Province - Learning Swahili

The surfEXPLORE Group takes on big sharks, ambergris and the inconsistent waves of Lamu and Manda Islands on the Swahili coast of east Africa

‘JAMBO’ THE TIGER SHARK

Camouflage-striped Jambo speaks no words, but I feel his presence. Poised with indecision, I lie on my board, staring, until I meet the black mirror of his pupil. Eye contact answers all our questions. His burnt stare scorches my nerves and I accede to his position at the apex of the food triangle. In the God’s country, always honour the God. Twelve feet of carnivore glides with the current. My heart pounds, but I feel strangely calm. I spin and paddle over to Cheyne Cottrell.

 “Tiger shark,” I said, aware that the Cape Town-based goofy footer knows a thing or two about predators. We stick like glue, walk back up the left point between rides, deliberate if it was worth paddling back out. But we do. No flashy turns, just safe surfing. Jambo appears again, but less threatening, drifting with the ebbing tide. He knows what we’re doing. We know he’s boss. In Africa, you’ve always got to be in your senses. Don’t challenge nature, adapt. Stick with your animal instincts. We walk back from Ras Kitau point with photographer John Callahan to our Manda beach bandas. The skies open. The smell of rain on dust. Our African safari has begun, with a warning: stay tuned.

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