After wiping out on a giant wave, many surfers feel like they are going to die, but remarkably few people die from surfing big waves.
Big-wave surfing isn’t for everyone. In fact, it is not attractive for many keen surfers, who prefer waves up to double-overhead in height, because after that, the fear is greater than the fun.
After wiping out on a giant wave, many surfers feel like they are going to die, but remarkably few people die from surfing big waves.
Buzzy Trent, a famous and uber-macho American big wave surfer from the 1960s, was once quoted as saying, “Big waves are measured not in feet, but in increments of fear”.
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